2005 April

Denver, America’s Most Livable

Posted by kristal on April 25th, 2005

Partners for Livable Communities is an organization that names the most livable communities in the U.S. Using four categories, the awards are given for large, mid-sized, small cities and regions.

Denver was named 3rd in the large city division.

For a complete run down on all the cities, including great information on Denver and metro region, visit:

Denver a Livable City

The Top Ten List of Buyer and Seller Mistakes

Posted by kristal on April 24th, 2005

Here are 10 of the most common mistakes home buyers and owners make, and how to avoid them:

- You choose the wrong mortgage. With the advent of instant financing, home loans are no longer the lifetime obligations they once were. Still, you don’t want to be saddled with the wrong one, even for a short period. It’s just too expensive to get out of.

Therefore, investigate all your options, then lay your favorites side-by-side and make comparisons. Above all, though, do the math, making sure to compare worst-case scenarios.

- You confuse pre-approved with pre-qualified. These are not interchangeable terms. When you are pre-qualified, the lender is making an educated guess about how much you can borrow based on the information you provide. It is an estimate and nothing more.

When you are pre-approved, the lender has verified everything you have told him and "guaranteed" to lend you a certain amount at current interest rates. Even then, however, final clearance is subject to an appraisal of the property you decide to buy.

You still haven’t crossed home plate until you have a commitment letter stating the rate and loan amount at which you have been approved and for how long. Even then, though, you can be called out if a second look at your credit report a day or two before closing reveals you’ve incurred some extra debt in the interim.

- You have too much credit. Excessive credit is almost as damaging as having bad credit, or even no credit. Credit scoring models tend to focus just as much on the amount of credit you have available as whether you pay your bills on time.

Cancel the credit cards you don’t use. And postpone those big-ticket purchases until after closing.

- You lie on your loan application. It may seem like a little white lie, but exaggerating your income on a mortgage application or putting down other falsehoods is a federal offense.

Lenders rarely prosecute liars. But if they find out later that you fibbed, they can call the loan due and payable. What’s more likely, however, is that you get approved for a loan or house you really can’t afford. Even if your loan officer says it’s OK to fudge just a little, don’t do it.

Don’t ever sign your name to a loan application that’s not completely filled out. Loan officers have been known to go behind their clients’ backs by stretching the truth to get them approved. But it’s the borrower who ends up paying the price.

- You hide if you can’t make the payments. The worst thing you can do is ignore phone calls and letters from your lender when you get behind on your payments. Lenders are bending over backwards these days to keep people in their homes, and they have numerous options to avoid foreclosure.

Among other things, they can rewrite the terms so you can start over with a clean slate at a payment you can afford, or they can set you up with a financial counselor who can help you.

But they can’t do anything for you unless they can talk to you.

- You skip a home inspection. Failing to make your purchase contingent on a satisfactory examination of the property by an independent home inspector could be a costly mistake.

A good home inspector will go over the place from stem to stern. He or she will be able to tell you whether the roof and/or basement leaks, whether the mechanical systems are in good shape and how long the appliances should last. They can’t report on things they can’t see, but at least their trained eyes are better than yours.

So don’t pass up an inspection just to save $300 to $400.

- You hire just any agent to sell your house. All real estate agents are not cut from the same cloth. You want to look for those who specialize in your neighborhood and are top producers. If Aunt Bessie or Nephew Nick don’t fit that description, look elsewhere.
Ask your candidates how they plan to market your house, what you can do to make the place more attractive to prospects and how much you should ask for it. If you don’t like any of the answers, keep searching until you find one you are certain will do a good job on your behalf.

Beware of those who suggest you should be able to obtain top dollar or more. Unless yours is an extra-special house, they may be saying that just to get the listing. If this is the case, you will be brought back down to earth in a few weeks when they tell you the place isn’t selling because it is priced too high.

- You fail to check out a remodeler. Never hire a contractor who knocks on your door or says his prices are good for only a few days.

Whether they are specialty tradesmen who do only one thing like siding or roofing or remodelers who handle large projects like additions or total makeovers, reputable contractors don’t solicit door-to-door, and they don’t cut prices just because they happen to be in the neighborhood.

Check out a potential contractor by calling several past clients, your local Better Business Bureau or consumer affairs agency, and the contractor’s bankers and suppliers. It’s also a good idea to take a look at his work. What is acceptable to someone else may not be acceptable to you.

- You pay too much up front. If a contractor asks for more than a third of the contract as a down payment, chances are something’s wrong.

At worst, he’s a scam artist who has no intention of returning after he cashes your check. At best, he’s undercapitalized and can’t afford to buy materials without your funds. Or, in between, he could be using your money to pay workers on another job.

And one more thing: Never give a contractor cash.

- You burn your mortgage. Many people celebrate making their last house payment by holding a mortgage burning party. That’s OK, but don’t torch the original document. Make a copy and burn that instead. Keep all your loan papers in a safe place.

Lew Sichelman, United Feature Syndicate

How To Clean Like a Pro

Posted by kristal on April 23rd, 2005

Drive out the dust, dirt and scum from top to bottom

Courtesy Chicago Tribune
By Annie Groer
The Washington Post

I love to cook, am a whiz with a hot iron and rather enjoy polishing the family silver(plate).

But the larger task of cleaning an entire apartment or house leaves me cold. Always has.

I might have remained forever ignorant of what it really means to clean from "top to bottom" (remember this phrase, it will reappear) had not a flyer from MaidPro, the Boston-based national cleaning franchise, recently come my way.

"All our service providers are professionally trained through our MaidPro University," the ad boasted. University? Where better to acquire a remedial education than from a firm that charges by the hour, trains two-person crews to clean as many as four houses a day, and has as its pun-ly motto, "It’s About Time."

Clearly grime is money.

My professor was self-described "neat freak," Philip Doyle, who spent 25 years in hotel management (housekeeping was definitely part of his portfolio) before he bought a MaidPro franchise here in October. His classroom was the home of a client, where I watched Doyle and one of his top cleaners do everything from shaking dead leaves off a pair of potted trees and dusting oil paintings with a fat, sable paintbrush to vacuuming a sofa and knife-creasing throw pillows.

Doyle’s first rule of cleaning echoes that of many household experts: "top to bottom." This technique drives all dust, cobwebs, pet hair and shower scum downward from ceilings, walls and furnishings. Once on the floor, the collective mess becomes a snap to vacuum, sweep or mop up.

His second-favorite direction is "from the farthest point to the door," which allows the cleaner to exit without tracking dirt over newly pristine surfaces.

In less than 10 minutes, I had acquired two foundations of cleaning. But real Maid Pro students learn much more, especially the overarching lesson of the order of chores.

First, strip the beds and put sheets and pillowcases in the washer. Then clean the whole kitchen, which is the toughest room in the house and gets a full half-hour of attention. (Doyle loves washing kitchen floors with a "Sh-mop," its large head covered by an abrasive pad and elasticized cloth cap). Continue by cleaning all bathroom surfaces before doing the bedrooms. Finish the laundry and bathrooms, clean the hallway and stairwell, and end up in the living and dining rooms.

MaidPro owners nationwide must use the same cleaning products, most of them from Procter & Gamble, including a liquid Comet cleanser that is not available to the public. The techniques are also uniform.

Take the toilet: Spray liquid scouring solution on the outside, from the top of the tank to the base of the throne. Pour Mr. Clean Toilet Bowl Cleaner into the water. Wait 15 minutes, wipe the exterior with a nylon scrubby and a microfiber cloth (color coded so it will not mistakenly be reused in the kitchen, thank heavens). Tackle the bowl with a long-handled toilet brush.

For framed art, spray Windex onto a paper towel to clean the glass. Spraying the glass directly may ruin the picture behind it. To shine a metal frame, first remove the photo, glass and backing, then apply polish (Doyle uses Nonox for Brass, Mrs. Wright’s Silver Cream for sterling or silverplate and a soft toothbrush for detail work). When the polish dries, rinse it off with hot water and completely dry the frame with a soft cloth before reassembly.

He routinely damp-cleans hardwood floors with a mild solution of 4 ounces of Spic and Span and 28 ounces of water. Occasionally, he uses Dura Seal paste wax on a wood floor and polishes it to high gleam with an electric buffer. He uses Riccar upright and tank vacuums with HEPA filters for most tasks, but prefers a ProTeam backpack vacuum for draperies because the wand has an adjustable suction vent and the machine is light enough for the cleaner to wear while climbing a ladder.

In dusting furniture–MaidPro uses microfiber cloths because they create enough static to attract dust–he instructs cleaners to move knickknacks and clean each with a brush.

He generally just dusts wooden furniture or goes over it with a cloth slightly dampened with a diluted Spic and Span solution because, over time, Doyle says, aerosol furniture polish containing silicon softens the finish and makes it less dirt-resistant and more scratch-prone.

There are other rules to master, including these: Always put newspaper on the floor before de-gunking an oven, never spray cleaners on or near a fish tank or pet cage, and check for toothpaste splatters on bathroom mirrors.

After several weeks of MaidPro University training, it’s time for "graduation" to a team of one’s own. In the Washington area, MaidPro prices range from about $60 for a condo (oven and refrigerator cleaning cost extra) to $1,200 for a five-story ambassador’s residence.

Other commercial services also train their staffs, although they don’t call it college.

Maid Brigade, based in Atlanta, offers a weeklong combination of morning classes and afternoon hands-on cleaning lessons. Chicago-based Merry Maids, the nation’s largest franchise cleaning service, not only trains its own workforce but posts helpful hints on its Web site (www.merrymaids.com) for the rest of us.

Who knew that lemon oil applied to bathroom tile walls can retard soap-scum buildup? Ditto for car wax on the sides of a porcelain bathtub (do not wax the tub’s bottom and invite a fall). If stubborn toilet bowl rings don’t succumb to an acid-based bowl cleaner and a nylon-backed scrubby sponge, attack them with a pumice stone (it must always be kept wet during rubbing). This will work only on vitreous porcelain.

Now I cannot wait to buy microfiber cloths, a fat paintbrush and a Sh-mop for my place.

- - -

Order of chores

Total Time: 3 3/4 Hours

To start:

10 minutes: Strip beds, wash sheets and pillowcases. Later wash towels and bathroom rugs separately.

Kitchen

30 minutes: Dust using duster, microfiber cloths and sable brush (cabinets, fridge top, vents, knickknacks). Wash dishes. Clean appliances, wipe down counters. Remove trash, rinse out trash can. Dust and wipe down baseboards. Vacuum and mop floor. Rinse and dry sink. Move laundry from washer to dryer, start second load.

Bathrooms

50 minutes (25 minutes per room): Spray cleaner on shower tile/glass surround, fixtures and tub. Let sit. Spray toilet exterior; put cleaner in bowl. Start high and dust ceiling, light fixtures, vents, tops of doors. Clean walls, doors and light switches. Clean mirror and vanity, polish sink fixtures. Clean shower surround and tile, recessed soap dish and tub. Remove trash, wash tile baseboards, vacuum floor, then mop. Wash, rinse and dry sink. Replenish towels.

Bedrooms

40 minutes (20 minutes per room): Start high and dust ceilings, vents, door frame tops, pictures. Dust lampshades and light bulbs with brush. Use cloths for lamps and furniture. Vacuum behind nightstands and under bed; put on clean linens. Remove trash. Vacuum baseboards and wipe down. Vacuum and damp-mop wood floors. Vacuum rugs.

Hallways and stairs

20 minutes: Clean from top to bottom all vents, door frames, light switches, pictures, furniture, etc. Vacuum stair carpeting, use damp cloth for wood railing.

Powder room

15 minutes: Follow bathroom instructions above.

Living and dining rooms

60 minutes (30 minutes per room): Clean all surfaces from ceiling downward. Remove all objects from furniture, dust them, clean surfaces and replace. Follow bedroom procedures for lamps, pictures, etc. Vacuum furniture with attention to pet hair; get vacuum hose underneath furniture and cabinetry. Fluff upholstery. Empty trash. Dust baseboards and vacuum floor toward the exit.

Give Your Home a Check Up…

Posted by kristal on April 23rd, 2005

Courtesy Chicago TribuneThe Associated Press

Winter can be hard on a home. As the weather warms, it makes sense to give your home a good checkup. Spotting minor problems and fixing them can save homeowners headaches and money later on major repairs.

Here are ideas from HouseMaster Home Inspection Services and AllState for keeping the outside of your home in shape.

Inspect gutters.

Gutters should be inspected for debris and proper mounting. The expansion and weight of ice and snow from winter storms can sometimes loosen gutters, changing pitch and water flow. Make sure downspouts are extended far enough to carry water away from the foundation.

Look over the yard.

Check the grading to ensure it drains away from a home’s foundation. Wet and snowy winter weather can cause soil to settle in plant and flowerbed areas adjacent to a home’s foundation wall. This can cause water to build up next to the foundation. If needed, re-fill or re-grade depressed areas.

Basement window wells should be cleaned. Covers can prevent rainwater buildup and leaks.

Repair driveway and walkways that are cracked, broken or uneven to provide a level walking surface.

Remove all dead trees and keep healthy trees and bushes trimmed and away from utility wires.

Check the heads and operation of automatic sprinklers.

Test pumps.

Test sump pumps to make sure they are working. Be sure the motor, float switch and check valve are working and water is draining from the chamber. A back-up pump is worth considering in areas with groundwater problems.

Check roofs, siding and windows.

Look at roof valleys, chimneys, skylights and vent flashings. Temperature changes from summer to winter can cause expansion and contraction, which may lead to cracking in some roof cement and window caulking materials, creating potentially damaging water leaks. Include exterior caulk maintenance with spring cleaning. Check for rot in window sills and door thresholds; repair and repaint, if necessary. Inspect and clean siding.

Condition air conditioners.

Check the drainage pan and lines. The drainage pan and drain line should be free of dust and debris. An obstructed pan and line can lead to an overflow and water damage.

Have the air conditioning system inspected by a professional as recommended by the manufacturer.

Other tips:

Safely store oil and gas for lawn equipment and tools in a vented, secured area. And check outdoor light bulbs in all fixtures to be sure that they are the correct wattage as recommended by the manufacturer.

Some work, particularly on roofs, may require professionals. When looking for professional help, check references with a Better Business Bureau, homebuilders association or contractors association.

Allergies? Relocation may help…

Posted by kristal on April 23rd, 2005

The Asthma and Alleregy Foundation of America have presented their annual ranking of America’s worst cities for spring allergies.

It appears the best place NOT to be is in the Southeastern cities of the U.S.

Denver ranks pretty far down on the list at #53!

To see the complete list of the worst cities for spring allergies go here.

Denver real estate and Relocation

Spring Time in the Rockies

Posted by kristal on April 19th, 2005

Transferees relocating to kids often ask about our snow. For some reason many people have a vision of us Coloradoan being hip-deep in snow all winter long.

Not so! Well maybe up in the "high country" but certainly not in Denver! Why last week on Saturday the weather was in the mid 70’s. Then on Sunday we had a blizzard.

It was a big blizzard. All the Denver and teachers got to stay home, so did many Moms and Dads. Cool! A snow day!

Once in awhile we get them. Thank goodness!

Beware of Nosey Neighbors!

Posted by kristal on April 19th, 2005

Relocating to a new area has it’s scarey times. Today I came across a neighbor up in Sunset Ridge in Kittridge ( a mountain suburb of Denver ). This neighbor was cute, but not so friendly. Guess I didn’t have the right kind of food…

Denver Real Estate & Relocation

A Denver Real Estate Company

Today’s Top Real Estate News

Posted by kristal on April 19th, 2005

Provided by Inman News

March Statistics 2005

Posted by kristal on April 8th, 2005

Berkshire Market Update

Homes for sale, average sale price for Denver homes and condos, average days on the market, absorption rate and total number of combined sales.

Denver Sales Statistics

March 2005

Metro Denver Prices:

Single Family Average Price:	Mar. 2005 - $292,046
(Detached Dwelling)	Feb. 2005 - $291,036
	Mar. 2004 - $275,500

Condo Average Price	Mar. 2005 - $184,409
	Feb. 2005 - $186,418
	Mar. 2004 - $177,833

Combined Average Price	Mar. 2005 - $269,254
	Feb. 2005 - $267,771
	Mar. 2004 - $253,297

Percent of Sales Price Change: (from Mar. 2004 to Mar. 2005)

Single Family	+6.01%
Condo	+3.70%
Average	+6.30%

Total Combined Number of Homes for Sale	Mar. 2005 - 23,023
	Feb. 2005 - 21,730
	Mar. 2004 - 24,909

Percent of Change in Available Inventory: (Mar. 2004 vs Mar. 2005)	-7.57%

Number of Combined Homes Sold this Month	Mar. 2005 - 3,778
vs. the previous month	Feb. 2005 - 2,779
vs. the same month last year:	Mar. 2004 - 3,695

Average days on Market - Mar. 2005 vs Mar. 2004	Mar. 2005 - 99.87
(combined sales)	Feb. 2005 - 106.00
	Mar. 2004 - 94.32

Absorption Rate:	Mar. 2005 - 26.41 weeks
(number of weeks necessary to sell current	Feb. 2005 - 33.88 weeks
combined inventory at current rate of sales)	Mar. 2004 - 29.21 weeks